- Words by Toby Tannas Photography by Lia Crowe
There are few pleasures in life as sweet as satisfying a sugar craving. ItB次元官网网址檚 even more fantastic when your chosen indulgence is beautifully handcrafted, ethically sourced and available just around the corner in a delightful Parisian-inspired caf茅.
Stepping into Karat Chocolate + Pastry Boutique, nestled on a quiet block of Ellis Street in downtown Kelowna, is first and foremost a feast for the eyes, with glass displays boasting their signature chocolates, cakes and pastries both savoury and sweet.
On the day I visit, there is a steady stream of people ordering coffee and treats. Unlike other coffee shops, they donB次元官网网址檛 rush off with paper cups and bags; instead, they sit at bistro-style tables to savour every sip and nibble. (You can see the satisfaction on their facesB次元官网网址攐ften along with a remnant of flaky chocolate croissant!)
What they donB次元官网网址檛 notice is the man perched on a chair in the corner observing it all. HeB次元官网网址檚 chef and owner of Karat, Julian Helman: the visionary who brought this bright, vibrant, delicious atmosphere to life.
B次元官网网址淚 always knew I wanted to own a pastry shop ever since I was a kid. My dad was a chef and I grew up in kitchens. Back then, I just didnB次元官网网址檛 know making chocolates was going to be my ticket.B次元官网网址
Chocolate is the foundation of Karat. In 2015, Julian was working as a pastry chef at QuailsB次元官网网址 Gate Winery and dabbling in chocolate making on the side.
B次元官网网址淚 put a little sign-up board in the kitchen and told co-workers that if they wanted any I was making little boxes of chocolates for Christmas. I had $400 in my bank account. I bought a couple of bags of chocolate and some little craft boxes off the internet.B次元官网网址
A chef friend at nearby Mission Hill Estate Winery let Julian use the basement kitchen to churn out his chocolate creations in the offseason, in what was literally an B次元官网网址渦ndergroundB次元官网网址 operation. Eventually, he started getting attention thanks to word of mouth and social media. A downtown boutique was the first to stock Karat chocolate bars.
B次元官网网址淲hen Linda from Olive & Elle Boutique first reached out,B次元官网网址 recalls Julian, B次元官网网址淚 had to explain that I was a one man show. Turns out that was one of the things Olive & Elle loved about Karat.B次元官网网址
When JulianB次元官网网址攚ho is internationally trained in both the cooking and pastry disciplinesB次元官网网址攍anded a short stint as a private chef on northern Vancouver Island, he was able to pad his bank account enough to take his chocolate business to the next level.
B次元官网网址淚 reached out to my friend Dave, who owns what is now Bright Jenny Coffee. He found a space for me in the north end. It was 500 square feet and $40 a month. I rented it and we put a little retail section in there. We had four chocolate bars and you could buy boxes of 12 chocolates and that was it,B次元官网网址 he says with a chuckle.
That was 2016. Since then, Julian has slowly built the business one chocolate order at a time. He is eternally grateful to family members like his uncle, Vince, who packaged chocolates in those early days and continues to offer advice and step up when heB次元官网网址檚 needed. Every bit of support over the years has allowed Julian to spend more time honing his craftB次元官网网址攁 vital ingredient in his recipe for success.
B次元官网网址淚 became obsessed with the ingredients. Sourcing the best chocolate, asking where are the beans grown, who are the people behind the business, how does it get to our table?B次元官网网址
Julian applies those same ethics to the ingredients used in Karat pastries as well. In just a handful of years, the basement chocolate-making operation has grown into a well-rounded and thriving local business.
B次元官网网址淚 still feel like we are a really young company and we have so far to go,B次元官网网址 Julian says. B次元官网网址淚nvestors have shown interest in making Karat a big operation but itB次元官网网址檚 just not of interest to me. I like moving a bit slow in terms of growth, so we know exactly what weB次元官网网址檙e doing and ensuring the quality is always high.B次元官网网址
A big part of the quality equation is skilled labour. Karat now has 18 team members (including Uncle Vince), and JulianB次元官网网址檚 wife, Amanda, oversees the caf茅 and manages the books.
B次元官网网址淲ithout the support and hard work of Amanda behind the scenes, Karat would not exist as it does today.B次元官网网址
Julian thinks of his staff as family, and many have stood by him and the business during some really difficult times. Julian is proud of his chefs and offers them plenty of creative freedom.
B次元官网网址淚 let the staff run a little and do their thing creatively. IB次元官网网址檓 always involved, though, and I like to keep it simple. I start with a flavour I really like, then profile it with a specific chocolate, and then weB次元官网网址檒l work on the look a little. What we like to eat is what we make. My dad always said figure that out, then make it the best you can and you wonB次元官网网址檛 fail.B次元官网网址
As proof that the cream really does rise to the top, Julian and his team are ready to growB次元官网网址攁 little! The Ellis Street caf茅 will undergo a renovation and expansion early next year, and the new space will feature even more of the freshly baked goods theyB次元官网网址檝e become known for, including full-sized cakes. KaratB次元官网网址檚 original location (the tiny one) will remain the chocolate kitchen, which is where you will most often find Julian.
B次元官网网址淎 perfect day for me is when I get to be in my chocolate kitchen, developing something new. I call them diamond days. TheyB次元官网网址檙e few and far between right now as IB次元官网网址檓 managing everything, but I will definitely make time for more diamond days in the next few years.B次元官网网址
Julian is also making more time for family. His daughter, three-year-old Hazel, keeps her parents on their toes, and her love for being with dad has influenced JulianB次元官网网址檚 priorities.
B次元官网网址淲hen I was younger it was all about work. As you get older, when you have kids, it softens you. My happiest memories are here in the shop when my daughter was a toddler. I would drop off pastries and I would see her little face in the window every morning. She would grab a croissant off the rack, I would have a coffee and we would just be together. Those are the best memories.B次元官网网址
Karat is a true artisan company with family at its core. The next time you visit Karat Chocolate + Pastry Boutique for a hand-crafted indulgence, keep your eye out for the chef and his daughter sharing some quality time over a pastry. A beautiful reminder that life and business are best served sweet!
Story courtesy of , a Black Press Media publication
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