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A Red Seal-trained baker heads north to start an organic farm

Jonathan Knight and Jolene Swain run WoodGrain Farm, producing vegetables, lamb and flour

Baguettes, buns and croissants are a few of the things baked in the hand-built wood fire oven that sits deep within Kispiox Valley, located between Smithers and Terrace. Here, the coastal air merges with lush forests and the scent of freshly baked bread (could anything smell better?).

A cycling trip to Haida Gwaii led Jonathan Knight to the area after years spent on various farms dreaming of finding his own land. After selling his company, True Grain Bread, in Cowichan Bay, he purchased the northern farm in 2009. Together with his partner, Jolene Swain, they run the certified organic WoodGrain Farm and produce vegetables, seeds, lamb, garlic salts and flour.

The Red Seal-trained baker described their flour production as operating on more of a B次元官网网址渉obbyist scale,B次元官网网址 although they still sell their flour at the local farmersB次元官网网址 market and to retailers.

Production depends on what works in the marginal climate with short seasons. Knight has seen success with rye and winter wheatB次元官网网址攁lthough one winter, it didnB次元官网网址檛 get cold enough, and a field of winter wheat moulded in the snow. Another year, the grizzly bears were well fed after they got to his spring wheat, red fife.

B次元官网网址淚tB次元官网网址檚 best not to put too many eggs in the grain basket here,B次元官网网址 he said while explaining that farmers must be resilient and diverse in remote locations.

B次元官网网址淵ou canB次元官网网址檛 really sell a lot of just a few things. You need to have a great variety of many different things to sell. ItB次元官网网址檚 not like you have a lot more customers come to the market that are just going to each grab a bag of carrots. You have relatively few customers compared to larger centers. So you want to be able to offer more to them.B次元官网网址

As such, being a jack of all trades is important, he said; however, HARVEST didnB次元官网网址檛 get the impression that heB次元官网网址檚 a master of none.

Along with the wood fire oven, Knight successfully built the farmB次元官网网址檚 stone ground flour mill. The 12B次元官网网址 quarried granite stone was ordered from Meadows Mills in North Carolina and is beautifully encased in Kispiox birch.

After harvesting his fields, the stone mill sheers the grain, keeping the different parts of the grain togetherB次元官网网址攖he bran, germ and endosperm.

This differs from what many commercial mills often useB次元官网网址攔ollersB次元官网网址攖hat separate the bran and germ from the grain. The bran can be added back afterward, but the germ, the most nutritious part of the grain, is not always added back because it shortens the flourB次元官网网址檚 shelf life.

While Health Canada requires the nutrients lost during commercial processing to be added to the flour, Knight says that, unless stone ground, itB次元官网网址檚 technically not 100 per cent whole wheat flour; itB次元官网网址檚 refined flour with bran re-added.

For Knight, he prefers the traditional method. Keeping the grain intact also helps maintain the nutrition and flavour.

B次元官网网址淎ll you should need to make bread is flour, water and a bit of salt to sort of enhance the flavours.B次元官网网址

His collection of up to 40 heirloom seed varieties allows him to experiment and see what does best: the older varieties that contain genetic diversity in them.

B次元官网网址淲hen youB次元官网网址檙e growing [wheat] and saving the seeds and growing [wheat] and saving the seeds, youB次元官网网址檙e saving the best ones, the best individuals in that population. So theyB次元官网网址檙e gradually changing and adapting to your climate B次元官网网址 you know, the somewhat cool, somewhat short season of the northwest B.C. climate.B次元官网网址

While WoodGrain Farm sells its flour, they reserve the bread for them.

B次元官网网址淲e fire [the oven] up a couple of times a month and we bake all of our bread,B次元官网网址 including buns, croissants and baguettes. Next, the products are stored in the freezer for the couple to consume when ready.

B次元官网网址淚tB次元官网网址檚 just like having fresh, wood-fired bread every time we pull it from the freezer,B次元官网网址 said Knight, who also enjoys hosting pizza parties for friends.

To learn more about WoodGrain Farm, visit their website at woodgrain.ca.



kim.kimberlin@blackpress.ca

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Kim Kimberlin, Local Journalism Initiative

About the Author: Kim Kimberlin, Local Journalism Initiative

I joined Black Press Media in 2022, and have a passion for covering topics on womenB次元官网网址檚 rights, 2SLGBTQIA+ and racial issues, mental health and the arts.
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