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Fight over precious groundwater in rural California town is rooted in carrots

Property owners taking their right to water to court
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A sign calling for the boycott of carrots stands outside the Cuyama Buckhorn restaurant and hotel, Wednesday, Sept. 20, 2023, in New Cuyama, Calif. (AP Photo/Marcio Jose Sanchez)

In the hills of a dry, remote patch of California farm country, Lee Harrington carefully monitors the drips moistening his pistachio trees to ensure theyB次元官网网址檙e not wasting any of the groundwater at the heart of a vicious fight.

He is one of scores of farmers, ranchers and others living near the tiny town of New Cuyama who have been hauled into court by a lawsuit filed by two of the nationB次元官网网址檚 biggest carrot growers, Grimmway Farms and Bolthouse Farms, over the right to pump groundwater.

The move has saddled residents in the community 100 miles (160 kilometers) northwest of Los Angeles with mounting legal bills and prompted them to post large signs along the roadway calling on others to boycott carrots and B次元官网网址淪tand with Cuyama.B次元官网网址

B次元官网网址淚tB次元官网网址檚 just literally mind-boggling where theyB次元官网网址檙e farming,B次元官网网址 Harrington said, adding that his legal fees exceed $50,000. B次元官网网址淭hey want our water. They didnB次元官网网址檛 want the state telling them how much water they can pump.B次元官网网址

The battle playing out in this stretch of rural California represents a new wave of legal challenges over water, long one of the most precious and in a state that grows much of the countryB次元官网网址檚 produce.

For years, California didnB次元官网网址檛 regulate groundwater, allowing farmers and residents alike to and take what they needed. That changed in 2014 amid a historic drought, and as ever-deeper wells caused .

A new state law required communities to form local groundwater sustainability agencies tasked with developing plans, which must be approved by the state, on how to manage their basins into the future. The most critically overdrafted basins, including CuyamaB次元官网网址檚, were among the first to do so with a goal of achieving sustainability by 2040. Other high and medium priority basins followed.

But disputes arose in Cuyama and elsewhere, prompting a series of lawsuits that have hauled entire communities into court so property owners can defend their right to the resource beneath their feet. In the Oxnard and Pleasant Valley basins, growers sued due to a lack of consensus over pumping allocations. In San Diego County, a water district filed a lawsuit that settled about a year later.

ItB次元官网网址檚 a preview of what could come as more regions begin setting stricter rules around groundwater.

The lawsuit in Cuyama, which relies on groundwater for water supplies, has touched every part of a community where cellphone service is spotty and people pride themselves on knowing their neighbors.

The school secretary doubles as a bus driver and a vegetable grower also offers horseshoeing services. There is a small market, hardware store, a Western-themed boutique hotel and miles of land sown with olives, pistachios, grapes and carrots.

From the start, Grimmway and Bolthouse participated in the formation of the local groundwater sustainability agency and plan.

Their farms sit on the most overdrafted part of the basin, and both companies said they follow assigned cutbacks. But they think other farmers are getting a pass and want the courts to create a fairer solution to reduce pumping throughout the basin, not just on their lots.

B次元官网网址淚 donB次元官网网址檛 want the aquifer to get dewatered because then all I have is a piece of gravel, no water, which means itB次元官网网址檚 desert ground, which is of no value to anybody,B次元官网网址 said Dan Clifford, vice president and general counsel of Bolthouse Land Co. B次元官网网址淲hat weB次元官网网址檙e trying to get is the basin sustainability, with the understanding that youB次元官网网址檙e going to have a judge calling balls and strikes.B次元官网网址

Grimmway, which has grown carrots in Cuyama for more than three decades, currently farms less than a third of its 20 square miles (52 square kilometers) there and has installed more efficient sprinklers to save water. Seeing groundwater levels decline and pumping costs rise, the company began growing carrots in other states, but doesnB次元官网网址檛 plan to uproot from Cuyama, said Jeff Huckaby, the companyB次元官网网址檚 president and chief executive.

B次元官网网址淚tB次元官网网址檚 one of the best carrot-growing regions that weB次元官网网址檝e come across,B次元官网网址 Huckaby said, adding that arid regions are best so carrot roots extend below ground for moisture, growing longer. B次元官网网址淭he soil up here is ideal, temperatures are ideal, the climate is ideal.B次元官网网址

California has been a B次元官网网址淲ild WestB次元官网网址 for water but thatB次元官网网址檚 changing. The company has cut back its water use in Cuyama and hopes to remain there for decades, he said.

Until the lawsuit, 42-year-old cattle rancher Jake Furstenfeld said he thought the companies were working with people in town, but not anymore.

Furstenfeld, who sits on an advisory committee to the groundwater agency, doesnB次元官网网址檛 own land and doesnB次元官网网址檛 have an attorney. But heB次元官网网址檚 helping organize the boycott and has passed out yard signs.

B次元官网网址淚tB次元官网网址檚 been called David versus Goliath,B次元官网网址 he said.

Many residents are worried about the water they need to brush their teeth, wash clothes and grow a garden. The water district serving homes in town said rates are rising to cover legal fees. The school district, which is trying to stay afloat so its 185 students can attend school locally, is burdened with unexpected legal bills.

B次元官网网址淲ithout water, we have no school,B次元官网网址 said Alfonso Gamino, the superintendent and principal. B次元官网网址淚f the water basin goes dry, I can kind of see Bolthouse and Grimmway going somewhere else, but what about the rest of us?B次元官网网址

Before the stateB次元官网网址檚 groundwater law, most groundwater lawsuits were filed in Southern California, where development put added pressure on water resources. Legal experts now expect more cases in areas where farmers are being pushed to slash pumping.

B次元官网网址淔or an average person or a small user it is disruptive because must people havenB次元官网网址檛 been involved in lawsuits,B次元官网网址 said Eric Garner, a water rights attorney who worked on CaliforniaB次元官网网址檚 law. B次元官网网址淔or large pumpers, lawyers are an inexpensive option compared with having to replace their water supply.B次元官网网址

Most of the countryB次元官网网址檚 carrots are grown in California, with consumers demanding a year-round supply of popular baby carrots. The stateB次元官网网址檚 climate is a prime place for growing and carrots are one of CaliforniaB次元官网网址檚 top 10 agricultural commodities, valued at $1.1 billion last year, state statistics show.

Along the highway, GrimmwayB次元官网网址檚 fields are doused with sprinklers for eight hours and left to dry for two weeks so carrot roots stretch in search of moisture. Critics question the companiesB次元官网网址 use of daytime sprinklers, but Huckaby said Grimmway uses far less water than the alfalfa grower who farmed there before.

The suit in Cuyama, filed two years ago, has an initial hearing in January. In a recent twist, Bolthouse Farms has asked to withdraw as a plaintiff, saying the company has no water rights as a tenant grower and plans to slash its water use 65% by 2040. The company that owns the land, Bolthouse Land Co., is still litigating.

Jean Gaillard, another Cuyama advisory committee member, sells produce from his garden to locals. He tries to conserve water by alternating rows of squash between corn stalks and capturing rainwater on the roof of an old barn.

Paying a lawyer to represent him rather than re-investing in his produce business is problematic, he said. Meanwhile, his well water has dropped 30 feet (9 meters) in the past two decades.

B次元官网网址淲e feel we are being totally overrun by those people,B次元官网网址 Gaillard said. B次元官网网址淭hey are taking all the water.B次元官网网址





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