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Restaurant criticB次元官网网址檚 job comes with unexpected downsides

B次元官网网址楤est job in journalismB次元官网网址 not as tasty as it might seem on the outside
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Among the unexpected hazards of being a restaurant critic. Pixabay photo

Restaurant critics appear to have the best job in journalism, a few nights a week on someone elseB次元官网网址檚 dime.

But restaurant critic Pete Wells had painted a more complicated picture. In a recent column, Wells announced heB次元官网网址檚 leaving the beat because the constant eating has led to and other health problems.

B次元官网网址淚ntellectually, it was still really stimulating, but my body started to rebel and say, B次元官网网址楨nough is enough,B次元官网网址橞次元官网网址 Wells told The Associated Press. B次元官网网址淚 just had to come face to face with the reality that I canB次元官网网址檛 metabolize food the way I used to, I canB次元官网网址檛 metabolize alcohol the way I used to and I just donB次元官网网址檛 need to eat as much as I did even 10 years ago.B次元官网网址

To write a review, usually make two or three visits to a restaurant and bring a handful of dining companions so they can taste as many dishes as possible. If has a special focus on wine or cocktails or desserts, they try those, too.

B次元官网网址淵ou have to sample the full range of the menu,B次元官网网址 said Ligaya Figueras, the senior food editor and lead dining critic for the Atlanta Journal-Constitution. B次元官网网址淚f I really felt like a salad today, I canB次元官网网址檛 just have the salad.B次元官网网址

Special features, like lists of the best places to get pizzas or hamburgers, may have critics eating the same fare for weeks. MacKenzie Chung Fegan, a restaurant critic for the San Francisco Chronicle, sampled all over the city for a story about a restaurant that specialized in the dish.

B次元官网网址淭here was a two-week period where I was eating more duck than anyoneB次元官网网址檚 doctor would advise,B次元官网网址 Fegan said.

All that restaurant eating can take a toll. In a 2020 study published in the Journal of Nutrition, researchers at the Friedman School of Nutrition Science and Policy at Tufts University found that 50% of meals at full-service U.S. restaurants B次元官网网址 and 70% of those at B次元官网网址 were of poor nutritional quality, according to American Heart Association guidelines. Less than 1% were of ideal quality.

Dariush Mozaffarian, a cardiologist and Tufts professor who was one of the studyB次元官网网址檚 authors, said restaurant meals tend to be lower than ideal in whole grains and legumes, modestly lower in fruits and vegetables, and modestly and saturated fat.

For the period the study examined, between 2003 and 2016, the nutritional quality of food in grocery stores improved, Mozaffarian said. But restaurants didnB次元官网网址檛 make similar changes, he said.

B次元官网网址淚 canB次元官网网址檛 tell you how many restaurants I go to and on every personB次元官网网址檚 plate there are French fries,B次元官网网址 Mozaffarian said. B次元官网网址淭here are not an equal and diverse array of healthy and unhealthy menu choices.B次元官网网址

To be fair, Fegan said, diners are looking for something delicious when they go out to eat, B次元官网网址渁nd a lot of times that means something with fat and sodium.B次元官网网址

B次元官网网址淚f IB次元官网网址檓 looking at the menu thinking, B次元官网网址榃hat is the most exciting thing on this menu?,B次元官网网址 itB次元官网网址檚 probably not a side of broccoli rabe,B次元官网网址 she said.

Figueras deals with the challenge in several ways. On the nights sheB次元官网网址檚 not dining out, she says she is B次元官网网址渉ypervigilantB次元官网网址 and eats mostly vegetables. She plays tennis and walks her dog to stay in shape. And when sheB次元官网网址檚 heading to a restaurant, she eats fruit or another healthy snack so she wonB次元官网网址檛 arrive hungry.

B次元官网网址淓verything tastes good when youB次元官网网址檙e starving,B次元官网网址 she said.

Lyndsay Green, the dining and restaurants critic at the Detroit Free Press, also tries to eat healthy on her days off, getting most of her food from a . Green says she thinks menus are getting healthier. Many chefs are offering gluten-free or vegan options, she said, and are getting more creative with their .

Green thinks restaurant critics can help readers by being open about their own needs. A pregnant critic, for example, could write up a restaurant guide for other expectant parents.

B次元官网网址淣early everyone has health concerns and dietary standards, so I think it can also be our job to talk about that in our work,B次元官网网址 she said.

Wells isnB次元官网网址檛 the only restaurant critic to make a change in recent years. Adam Platt stopped covering restaurants for New York magazine in 2022, also citing the toll on his health. Wyatt Williams stopped covering restaurants for the Atlanta Journal-Constitution in 2019, saying he had simply lost his appetite.

Fegan and Wells both noted that to have more longevity in the business. Mimi Sheraton, a former restaurant critic for The New York Times, died last year at age 97 after a six-decade career in food.

B次元官网网址淚 think if you are socialized as a woman in America, youB次元官网网址檝e already spent a lot of your time thinking about portion and weight and control,B次元官网网址 Fegan said.

Wells will file a few more reviews before stepping down in early August. He will remain with the Times. Times food writers Melissa Clark and Priya Krishna will step in as restaurant critics on an interim basis, the newspaper said.

Wells said he will continue to go to restaurants and maybe even enjoy them more now that heB次元官网网址檚 not distracted by work. He said he will be sorry to lose touch with New YorkB次元官网网址檚 seemingly infinite restaurant scene, but glad to find more balance in his own life.

B次元官网网址淓ating out constantly, you lose touch with your own normal appetite,B次元官网网址 he said. B次元官网网址淚 didnB次元官网网址檛 know anymore what was normal for me.B次元官网网址





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