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Fancy a dip? An Olympic reboot underway for ParisBԪַ toxic River Seine

A costly and complex cleanup is resuscitating the Seine with an eye on 2024
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Workers stand in the water storage tank construction site in Paris, Wednesday, April 5, 2023. A costly and complex clean-up is resuscitating the River Seine just in time for it to play a starring role in the 2024 Paris Olympics. The city and its region are rushing to make the SeineBԪַs murky waters swimmable, so it can genuinely live up to its billing as the worldBԪַs most romantic river. (AP Photo/Christophe Ena)

Even before he has dipped his toes into the murky waters of BԪַ famous but forbidden River Seine, French triathlete Thibaut Rigaudeau is already fielding questions from disbelieving friends.

BԪַAre you scared of swimming in the Seine?BԪַ he says they ask him. BԪַIt looks disgusting.BԪַBԪַ

For decades, it was. Though immortalized in art, literature and song, and cherished by lovers who whisper sweet nothings or tearfully part on the privacy of its banks, the river was ecologically dying. It was too toxic for most fish and for swimmers, largely useful only as a waterway for goods and people or as a watery grave for discarded bicycles and other trash. Swimming in the Seine has, with some exceptions, been off-limits since 1923.

Now, however, its admittedly unappetizing green-brown waters hide a tale of rebirth.

A costly and complex cleanup is resuscitating the Seine just in time for it to play a starring role in the and, after that, for it to genuinely live up to its billing as the worldBԪַs most romantic river, one thatBԪַs actually fit again for people. And in a warming world, a renewed ability to take cooling dips in the river should help FranceBԪַs capital remain liveable during . It possibly might also inspire other cities to invest in reclaiming their waterways.

BԪַIt will create waves, so to speak, across the world because a lot of cities are watching Paris,BԪַ says Dan Angelescu, a scientist who is tracking the SeineBԪַs water quality for City Hall, with regular sampling.

BԪַItBԪַs the beginning of a movement,BԪַ he says. BԪַWe hope so, at least.BԪַ

The Olympic deadline has supercharged a cleanup that has been decades in the making. Without the imperative of having to be ready for 10,500 Olympians in July and August next year, followed by 4,400 Paralympians, City Hall officials say it would have taken many more years to fund the multi-pronged, 1.4 billion-euro ($1.5 billion) effort. Because as well as hosting outdoor swim races, the Seine is going to be the centerpiece of ParisBԪַ . For the first time, it will take place not in a stadium setting but along the river and its banks.

So it needs to be ready. Officials have been going after homes upstream of Paris and houseboats on the Seine that were emptying their sewage and wastewater directly into the river. An Olympic law adopted in 2018 gave moored boats two years to hook up to ParisBԪַ sewage network. Sewage treatment plants on the Seine and its tributary, the Marne, are also being improved.

And more than half a billion euros (dollars) is going into huge storage basins and other public works that will reduce the need to spill bacteria-laden wastewater into the Seine untreated when it rains. One storage facility is being dug next to ParisBԪַ Austerlitz train station. The giant hole will hold the equivalent of 20 Olympic swimming pools of dirty water that will now be treated rather than being spat raw through storm drains in the river.

City Hall says the water quality is already improving and that there are many more types of fish than the two or three species that were the only ones hardy enough to survive in the filth a few decades ago. It says samples taken daily last July and August in the stretch of river where Olympians and Paralympians will compete showed the water quality was overwhelmingly BԪַgood.BԪַ By their sportsBԪַ standards, that means acceptable.

Setting off from the SeineBԪַs ornate Alexandre III bridge, triathletes will race first in 2024, with men on July 30, followed by women the next day. Then come marathon swimmers, on Aug. 8 and 9, and para-triathletes on Sept. 1 and 2.

Rigaudeau, who competed in para-triathlon at the 2021 Tokyo games, is thrilled by the prospect. HeBԪַs hoping for an early taste of the experience when Paris hosts warm-up swims in the Seine this summer to hone its readiness for 2024. It will be RigaudeauBԪַs first-ever dip in his home river.

BԪַWe will be the BԪַtesters,BԪַBԪַ he says. BԪַI hope we donBԪַt get sick.BԪַ

After the games, the river should then reopen to everyone BԪַ in the summer of 2025. City Hall says five potential bathing spots are being studied within Paris itself, with others a bit further afield.

Officials hope that after so many years where swimming in the Seine was unthinkable, Parisians will start to feel that itBԪַs safe to go back in the water when they see Olympians and Paralympians leading the way.

BԪַItBԪַs going to change our lives,BԪַ Rigaudeau says. BԪַBut itBԪַs also true that because everyone thinks that itBԪַs really very dirty, IBԪַm not sure if people will go of their own accord, at least at first.BԪַ

BԪַJohn Leicester, The Associated Press

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