The local news section of a Calgary Herald newspaper from 1883 began with a one-word paragraph: BԪַCronk.BԪַ
Interspersed between articles were similarly terse and mysterious phrases: BԪַCronk is good.BԪַ BԪַBuy Cronk.BԪַ BԪַCronk is the drink.BԪַ
A Calgary brewery, inspired by the enigmatic ads, has resurrected Cronk. Cold Garden Beverage Co. began selling stubby bottles of the fizzy, herbal-tasting beverage in its tap room Wednesday morning and ran out that night. More should be available online soon.
BԪַI think, overall, itBԪַs a success,BԪַ said Trevor Cox, brewer at Cold Garden.
BԪַI think it really tastes nice when itBԪַs cold and carbonated.BԪַ
Paul Fairie, a community health researcher at the University of Calgary, makes an occasional pastime of perusing old digitized newspapers and he often posts on Twitter the oddities he comes across.
BԪַOh God. IBԪַve got to learn more about this,BԪַ Fairie recalled thinking when he encountered the Cronk ads in June.
Cronk went viral. People posted photos of antique bottles that once contained the drink. Someone unearthed a recipe that calls for sassafras, sarsaparilla, hops, chamomile, cinnamon, ginger, green tea and molasses.
The owners of Cold Garden decided to have a go at brewing Cronk.
BԪַThe fact that it hadnBԪַt been produced in over 100 years made us kind of interested to see what it would taste like. We couldnBԪַt really find anywhere where anyone had said they had tasted it,BԪַ Cox said.
BԪַThe only way to find out was to brew it ourselves.BԪַ
Getting all the ingredients was tough during the COVID-19 pandemic, but Silk Road Spice Merchant, a shop near the brewery, helped procure what was needed.
The only diversion from the original recipe was leaving out sassafras. ThatBԪַs because it contains a substance believed to cause cancer and Health Canada has banned it from being used in food.
The brewery used mint, burdock root and other ingredients to mimic the flavour profile of sassafras.
The first attempt at Cronk was a foul-tasting flop.
The problem was the type of molasses.
BԪַThe black strap molasses was just way too thick and you could not get any of the other flavours. It was just basically molasses fermented,BԪַ said Cox.
BԪַSo we used a different type of molasses and the second batch turned out to be exactly what we think it should have tasted like.BԪַ
Cox said the concoction has the taste of an herbal liqueur, like Jaegermeister, thatBԪַs been diluted to four per cent alcohol content and carbonated.
BԪַItBԪַs meant to be a light beverage.BԪַ
Cold Garden brewed up 1,800, 375-millilitre bottles. There was a lineup soon after the brewery opened on Wednesday.
Proceeds are going to the Alex Community Health Centre and to Heritage Calgary.
Some bottles were set aside for Fairie, who was expecting Cronk to taste like BԪַmaybe a nice-sipping cough syrup.BԪַ
Fairie said Cronk provided a surprising and welcome break from the COVID-19 doldrums.
BԪַI couldnBԪַt have searched for a more bizarre kind of way to spend a month-and-a-half or two months of the pandemic BԪַ just finding some weird thing thatBԪַs a little bit harmless and a little bit fun to get yourself involved in.BԪַ
Lauren Krugel, The Canadian Press
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