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B.C. restaurant a BԪַlove letterBԪַ to Israeli and Palestinian roots of its owners

Creators of VancouverBԪַs Bar Haifa didnBԪַt set out to create BԪַa Palestinian-Israeli thingBԪַ
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Fadi Hakim, left, and Jason Hemi are pictured at Bar Haifa in Vancouver, B.C., Wednesday, Jan. 17, 2024. THE CANADIAN PRESS/Ethan Cairns

The collaborators behind restaurants in Vancouver and Toronto have Palestinian, Jewish and Israeli roots, and acknowledge they donBԪַt always agree.

BԪַImagine 38 tastings for a falafel, and they would end up with like, blowups,BԪַ co-owner Fadi Hakim says.

The team behind TorontoBԪַs Haifa Room now have a new venue, Bar Haifa, in downtown Vancouver.

It opened on Nov. 24, just a few weeks after attacks in Israel by Hamas and the start of the Israel-Hamas war.

Hakim says he and fellow restaurateurs Waseem Dabdoub, Mark Kupfert and Joseph Eastwood had always talked about opening a Middle Eastern restaurant, but they didnBԪַt set out thinking their collaboration was BԪַa Palestinian-Israeli thing.BԪַ

The two restaurants, their menus and ingredients do, however, represent BԪַa love letter to where weBԪַre from and how we grew up and how we ate,BԪַ he says.

BԪַFor us, we were content with just having a place that we could eat at all the time, eat our parentsBԪַ food, literally, and just eat really good Middle Eastern food.BԪַ

HakimBԪַs Palestinian father hails from the coastal city of Haifa. DabdoubBԪַs father is Palestinian, while Kupfert is Jewish from Montreal and Eastwood was born in Israel.

The team has also recruited executive chef Jason Hemi, who cut his teeth in French fine dining establishments but found his culinary home working at a Tel Aviv restaurant with BԪַkibbutz-styleBԪַ communal tables.

Hakim says the team originally planned to open Bar Haifa earlier last fall, but they ran into snags before finally setting the late November date.

The opening came in the wake of the attacks in which Hamas militants killed 1,200 people and took more than 200 hostage in southern Israel.

Israel has responded with airstrikes on the Gaza Strip, insisting its attacks are intended to take out Hamas and its supporters, not civilians. The health ministry in Gaza, which operates under Hamas, says more than 24,000 people have been killed in the conflict.

The Bar Haifa team members have family living in the region, and Hakim says they struggled with what to say about BԪַthe worst thing that could possibly happen.BԪַ

They came up with a public statement.

BԪַThe Haifa Room is owned by both Palestinians and Israelis and we have many family members living in Israel and Palestine,BԪַ they said on Instagram. BԪַOur hearts and thoughts go out to all the innocent civilians in the land we love. We are heartbroken.BԪַ

But they declined to speak with reporters who showed up in Toronto seeking comments about the Oct. 7 attacks.

BԪַWe politely turned them down BԪַ We serve humus,BԪַ says Hakim. BԪַAll we can really say is just, come in, come one, come all, break some bread.BԪַ

There are some BԪַdiffering opinionsBԪַ among the team members, Hakim says, but they have to work together, and ultimately, theyBԪַre like BԪַbrothers.BԪַ

Chef Hemi had been working at another Toronto restaurant for just a few weeks at the tail end of the COVID-19 pandemic, when he heard the founders of the fledgling Haifa Room were looking for a chef specializing in Middle Eastern cuisine.

He hadnBԪַt been looking for a change, but he couldnBԪַt pass up the opportunity.

BԪַIf I was going to make a dream menu, it would be this menu anyways,BԪַ he says.

Hemi has since relocated to Vancouver, becoming a co-owner of Bar Haifa. He says the new offering is a BԪַfiner serviceBԪַ than its more laid-back counterpart in Toronto.

The menu features an array of side dishes and small plates, from the seasonal humus BԪַ currently served with Brussels sprouts, pistachio gastrique and zhug, a hot sauce with roots in Yemen BԪַ to roasted root vegetables with smoked labneh.

ThereBԪַs also shakshuka and sabich BԪַ a pita packed with fried eggplant, cabbage and a soft-boiled egg BԪַ as well as a rotating fish dish, several offerings with chicken, and shipud, a strip loin skewer with caramelized fennel and shallots.

Hemi is particularly proud of the boneless lamb shoulder, cooked sous vide for 24-hours and served with shawarma spice, herb tahini and garlic sauce.

Hemi says heBԪַs never before had customers thank him for opening a restaurant, but people have come into Bar Haifa, saying, BԪַthe world needs this, the city needs this.BԪַ

BԪַThey believe in what we believe in,BԪַ he says.

Mostly, though, Hemi says they just want to serve delicious, thoughtful meals.

BԪַItBԪַs cool that we work together and we all come from different backgrounds, but also, we want to have a good restaurant.BԪַ

As for that contentious falafel recipe for the Haifa Room? BԪַEverybodyBԪַs mom has the best falafel recipe, the best humus recipe,BԪַ Hakim says.

The discussions were heated, he says, but BԪַthatBԪַs what family does.BԪַ

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