- Story by Jane Zatlyny Photography by Don Denton

I first experienced the communal cooking ritual known as fondue some 20 years ago. Six of us gathered around an avocado-coloured pot, a hand-me-down from the hostB次元官网网址檚 parents. We pierced cubes of raw meat with our fondue forks and then lowered them into bubbling hot oil.

I remember the sizzle of the oil as it met the meat, the fragrant cloud of steam that rose from the pot and how the experience warmed my senses on that cold winterB次元官网网址檚 night. We chatted and turned our forks with anticipation until our morsels of meat were ready to eat, then dabbed the meat into special sauces prepared by our host. Intrigued, I would go on to discover cheese fondue, hot broth fondue and, eventually, chocolate fondue.

Although most of us think of fondue as a retro North American cuisine, it actually has its roots in Europe. The word itself is a derivative of the French verb B次元官网网址渇ondre,B次元官网网址� which means B次元官网网址渢o melt.B次元官网网址� The Swiss staked their claim to the gooey goodness that is cheese fondue, naming it their national dish in 1930. As the story goes, fondue was invented in a French-speaking region of Switzerland in the 18th century as a way to use up stale bread and aged cheese during the winter months, when fresh food was scarce.

Oil fondues trace their beginnings to French vineyards. Workers who couldnB次元官网网址檛 break for their meals fried small pieces of meat in a communal pot of oil while working in the fields. A Swiss restaurateur, Konrad B次元官网网址淜onniB次元官网网址� Egli, is credited for popularizing the oil fondue, or fondue bourguignonne, in the 1960s in his Manhattan restaurant, Chalet Suisse. Egli is also said to be responsible for creating the chocolate fondue.

Though fondue is trendy now, it has gone in and out of fashion over the decades. But it really does have an enduring appeal, particularly at this time of year.

B次元官网网址淚t amazes me that it stays so popular, but I think itB次元官网网址檚 a lot like Monopoly,B次元官网网址� says Jed Grieve, owner of Cook Culture stores in Victoria and Vancouver. B次元官网网址淚tB次元官网网址檚 a fun and familiar thing that generations can actively do together at the holidays. We sell very few sets from January to November, but we canB次元官网网址檛 keep them in stock in December.B次元官网网址�

Fondue how-tos

Follow these simple steps when serving fondue at home for better results as well as safety.

Cheese fondue

Choose a sturdy enamelled cast iron pot (Staub and Le Creuset are both excellent options) for even heat distribution and safer handling. A large variety of cheese fondue recipes can be found via a quick Google, or turn to a trusted cookbook for a recipe that suits your preferences.

Most recipes call for a mixture of about 600 grams each of hard and semi-hard cheeses, up to two cups of beer or dry white wine, two tablespoons of traditional kirsch and a teaspoon of flour or cornstarch.

Begin by rubbing the inside of your pot with a cut clove of garlic. Mix the grated cheeses and warm the wine or beer on your stove-top over low heat. Heat the kirsch separately and stir in the flour or cornstarch. Gradually add the cheese mixture to the wine or beer. Stir constantly until the cheese melts. Add the kirsch/starch mixture and more warm liquid if mixture becomes too thick. Do not boil. Light the fuel (most fondue sets use Sterno or a gel fondue fuel; follow manufacturersB次元官网网址� instructions), and shift pot to its stand using oven mitts.

Cheese combinations to try:

B次元官网网址� The classic Swiss blend: Emmentaler and Gruy猫re

B次元官网网址� Dubliner and havarti

B次元官网网址� Stilton and aged Canadian cheddar

B次元官网网址� Fontina and brie

Dippers:

The skyB次元官网网址檚 the limit, but always avoid raw meats and seafood with cheese fondues.

B次元官网网址� Day-old baguette, pumpernickel or rye bread

B次元官网网址� Granny Smith apple chunks, seedless grapes and pear slices

B次元官网网址� Par-boiled potato cubes

B次元官网网址� Vegetables like broccoli, mushrooms, cauliflower and zucchini

B次元官网网址� French gherkins and pickled onions

B次元官网网址� Cooked meats, such as sliced chorizo or chunks of grilled beef tenderloin

Good to know:

B次元官网网址� DonB次元官网网址檛 discard the delicious crust of cheese on the bottom of the pot. It can be easily pried out of the pot with a fondue fork and is worth fighting over with your dinner companions.

Hot oil fondue

Stainless steel pots transfer the heat from oils evenly, but be sure to choose a good-quality model for safetyB次元官网网址檚 sake.

Fill your pot no more than one-third full with your chosen oil (peanut and vegetable oils work well). Carefully heat over low to medium until a cube of bread dropped into the oil turns golden brown in 30 seconds; do not let the oil smoke. (The correct temperature should be about 190 C or 375 F.) Move the pot to the fondue stand in the middle of a large table; maintain the heat to safely cook raw meat and seafood. (A thinly sliced piece of meat should cook to rare in 30 seconds, medium in 45 seconds and well done in 60 seconds.)

Sauces to try:

B次元官网网址� Serve beef filet slices with a classic B茅arnaise or Hollandaise sauce

B次元官网网址� Top chicken pieces with a dollop of pesto and sundried tomato slices

B次元官网网址� Dip pork chunks into a spicy Thai peanut sauce

B次元官网网址� Partner chunks of vegetables with Dijon or sriracha mayonnaise

Good to know:

B次元官网网址� Thinly sliver beef, chicken or seafood for faster cooking times

B次元官网网址� Separate raw meats from vegetables and refrigerate prior to serving

B次元官网网址� Discourage double dippers by setting the table with extra fondue forks, spoons, knives and forks and side plates

B次元官网网址� For a lighter option, try a chicken, beef or vegetable broth instead of an oil

Chocolate fondue

Small ceramic pots work best for chocolate fondues; they ensure that their sweet, rich contents remain at a low simmer. Make a ganache on your stovetop by mixing chocolate and hot cream together in a bowl over a saucepan filled with water.

You can vary the proportions and types of chocolate and cream. Add flavourings such as vanilla, nuts, fruits and liqueurs to taste. Transfer the mixture to your fondue pot and place over a low heat, typically a candle, to avoid burning the chocolate.

Flavourings to try:

B次元官网网址� Kahlua

B次元官网网址� Grand Marnier

B次元官网网址� Sea salt

B次元官网网址� Candy cane

Dippers

B次元官网网址� Chunks of firm fruit, such as pineapple, strawberries, pitted cherries, dried apricots and mandarin orange sections

B次元官网网址� Bread, fruit cake or biscotti pieces

B次元官网网址� Marshmallows, angel food cake pieces, pretzels and potato chips

Toppings

B次元官网网址� Whipped cream

B次元官网网址� Slivered almonds

B次元官网网址� Chocolate shavings

B次元官网网址� Ground nuts

Try before you buy

In Victoria, beginning in early November, offers a special fondue menu with traditional cheese, broth and chocolate fondues. Choose a three-course fondue menu for $85 for two, or just try one of the following fondues with your meal:

Roasted Garlic Cheese Fondue: Raclette and Emmental cheese blend with kirsch and roasted garlic served with baguette, pears, Granny Smith apples, cornichons, grilled zucchini, and wine chorizo.

Chicken Hot Broth Fondue: A chicken stock broth, served with pieces of broccoli, baby Yukon Gold potatoes, prawns, seared sirloin, carrots, baby bok choy, chili onion sauce and charred green onion mayo.

Grand Marnier 70% Dark Chocolate Fondue: A rich dessert fondue, served with fresh fruit, house-made marshmallows, banana cake and whipped cream.

Where to buy

Fondue pots were ubiquitous in the 1960s and B次元官网网址�70s, but they are a specialty item now, so itB次元官网网址檚 a good idea to call ahead before visiting a store to pick one up. Here are some options for in-person and online shopping in Victoria:

The Bay:

1150 Douglas Street, Victoria (250-385-1311)

3125 Douglas Street, Victoria (250-386-3322)

Cook Culture:

1317 Blanshard Street, Victoria (250-590-8161)

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The Fabulous Find Midcentury Furnishings:

538 Herald Street, Victoria (250-590-2550)

Penna & Company Kitchen and Giftwares:

Broadmead Village Shopping Centre

777 Royal Oak Drive, Victoria, (250-727-2110)

Trig Vintage:

546 Herald Street, Victoria (250-384-8084)

A huge thank you to Roshan Vickery for hosting our fondue party.

Story courtesy of , a Black Press Media publication
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