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The culinary creativity of Sam Harris, co-owner of VictoriaB次元官网网址檚 Cafe Brio

Meet the new owner of one of VictoriaB次元官网网址檚 top dining restaurants
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Sam Harris, co-owner of Cafe Brio in Victoria. (Samantha Duerksen/Black Press Media)

Working in several luxury hotels and resorts during his career, Sam Harris has cultivated exceptional expertise in fine dining experiences across Canada.

HeB次元官网网址檚 also proven his knack for being at the helm of successful establishments, helping to open the Courtenay Room, Agrius and Boom + Batten.

Now, Harris brings his talents to Cafe Brio, taking over the business from co-owners Greg Hays and Silvia Marcolini after their successful 27-year run. Having been in its kitchen for the past two years, as he and the past co-owners B次元官网网址渁uditionedB次元官网网址 each other out, Harris and new co-owner bartender Vincent Vanderheide are committed to keeping the restaurant on par for the course.

B次元官网网址淲eB次元官网网址檝e already changed the stuff weB次元官网网址檝e wanted to change, which is a unique opportunity when buying a restaurant. I already know the regulars like my food because theyB次元官网网址檝e been eating it for two years,B次元官网网址 Harris said.

Cafe Brio embodies creativity through and through, from the ever-changing menu prioritizing ingredients from local farmers to the gallery walls.

B次元官网网址淭he farmers are the driving force of our creativity,B次元官网网址 Harris said.

The restaurantB次元官网网址檚 wheelhouse is rustic Italian but conceptually flexible, with items on the menu like GavinB次元官网网址檚 Greens, named after the forager/farmerB次元官网网址檚 weekly contributions, mains that change with the seasons, and sharing plates that highlight HarrisB次元官网网址 butchery and salami-making background. (He said thereB次元官网网址檚 always at least five different types of dry-cured pork on hand in the kitchen).

Harris, a creative at heart, seems the perfect fit for a place where the menu is refreshing consistently.

At one time, he considered taking an architecture and design college program, until the chef at his work asked him to consider a cooking program.

B次元官网网址淚t was like a flip switched,B次元官网网址 Harris said. B次元官网网址淚 really like it. It makes a double-edged sword, it comes with challenges as well. You have to be on every day, you have to be diligent, you have to be like, B次元官网网址極kay, guys, for our feature today, we have to use these fiddleheads that I bought.B次元官网网址 So you are always forcing yourself to be in a creative space.B次元官网网址

Harris also prides himself in having simple, approachable food on the menu, which in part stems from his background of B次元官网网址渧ery simple working-class food.B次元官网网址 His parents both did shift work so starting from 10 years old, he could cook his own food, starting with tuna melts and grilled cheese.

Simplicity is highlighted in one of his customerB次元官网网址檚 favourite dishes: the spaghettini with tomato, garlic, basil, olive oil and Parmesan cheese. B次元官网网址淧eople just love it.B次元官网网址

B次元官网网址淎nd then about a third of the menu is weirder, more adventurous stuff. Some people who arenB次元官网网址檛 adventurous might never go for it, but a lot of our regulars, weB次元官网网址檝e earned their trust and they know they can just randomly point at anything on the menu and weB次元官网网址檙e going to have put a lot of thought into it,B次元官网网址 he said.

The Cafe Brio menu also boasts elegant vegan foods, thanks to his younger vegan sister who challenges him to go beyond placating.

Besides his creativity, what makes Harris stand out as a leader is his ability to build a team of other passionate creatives so that it translates into the food.

B次元官网网址淭he restaurant is great because of the team that we have. IB次元官网网址檓 not just one person who does all this stuff. If IB次元官网网址檓 really good at anything, itB次元官网网址檚 building teams that help me do awesome work.

B次元官网网址淚tB次元官网网址檚 definitely a creative, committed team that makes something like this.B次元官网网址

WhatB次元官网网址檚 your favourite dish that you make?

Right now, the Scallop Hushpuppy. ItB次元官网网址檚 a brined scallop fried in a cornmeal batter, served with a crispy pancetta aioli, spaghetti squash and fried basil.

Do you have any favourite ingredients that you like to use?

I grew up in Ottawa, so maple syrup is a thing I love that often plays a very subtle role.

We also make wildflower kombuchas that we like turning to reduction, so Nuka Rose and elderflower are two other flavours I really like to have around. WeB次元官网网址檒l do an extraction and then make a cordial, a kombucha and then use those to make ice creams or to flavour sauces for things like duck breast.

If your mom or partner came to visit, what would you make her?

My partner, Merryn, and daughter come every Tuesday and have dinner. I like to use Merryn as a sounding board.

But my mom, usually I make her fish and chips. A classic, what she wants.

What are your goals for 2024?

My business partner and I want to get our teams to the point where we can take a week off in the busy summer season. So weB次元官网网址檒l see if either of us has the courage to try to do that this year and come to terms with our addiction of being here all the time.

ItB次元官网网址檚 really a fun project. If you have a restaurant, your work and hobbies become the same thing.

Are you creative outside of cooking?

I have an almost three-year-old so we get very creative. We do crafts and make art.

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Sam Harris, co-owner of Cafe Brio in Victoria. (Samantha Duerksen/Black Press Media)


Sam Duerksen

About the Author: Sam Duerksen

Since moving to Victoria from Winnipeg in 2020, IB次元官网网址檝e worked in communications for non-profits and arts organizations.
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